Now the more: If they “remodeled” and used grout at the plane changes I will bet a horse that there are MANY other issues with the “remodel”. YO house seems to be standard, so I wouldn’t be a bit surprised if those dimensions would require custom-made doors – if that turns out to be the case, I’ll just replace the channel for now. Getting one of the hot water circulators installed is a little bit more expensive, but makes it really nice when you can turn on the shower and it’s already hot. I’m thinking that may mean one for downstairs and one for upstairs. I don’t know if this will be helpful or hurt with bass (I’m thinking it could help unless the one inch gap between the shelf and the wall would cause a triple leaf). They also did a piss-poor job of sizing the walls with the tub, as there’s about a 1/2″ gap along one edge and 3/8″ along another. R-19 inside the framing and an air gap between the interior and exterior ceilings. Oh, and I’m thinking I should float this wall (and all the interior walls) on the appropriate Mason Industries ND isolators based upon the load, as well as install the stabilization iso-clips between the two walls.
Again, the interior wall will be essentially created in the same way as the other interior walls. The interior portion of it will be floated on some more ND isolators. But the image on the bottom left (for $215) is what my header looks like; the bottom track is much more intricate and presumably even more expensive. There are even ways of fixing creaky floors and squeaky floorboards. I found that the non-sanded grout was better for shower floors and smaller tiles, with smaller spaces between tiles. Looks like it’ll cost me at least $200 for fugly contractor grade stuff if I go the Home Depot route, but I’m sure there are better places for value. A better understanding of this would be greatly appreciated. I’m still planning on creating this combo of walls with a double layer of sheetrock with green glue sandwiched between and insulation. I don’t expect the builder to be keen on putting a layer or two of plywood on the top of the rafters. The floor. I think my only option is to go with 3″ rigid fiberglass insulation covered with two layers 1/2″ plywood covered by my flooring (probably laminate wood).
I will have to check the mass comparisons of the plywood vs. Cleaning blinds and upgrading curtains can have a huge impact too. As for electrical, I fell I can get the star grounding taken care of. I’m thinking it should not be a problem–but, I’ve learned that you never know until you start working with experts and even then they can get surprised! I’m still working out the electrical and HVAC, but I’m hopeful because I noticed that my model of house has two units outside (I think they are using heat pumps), one large and one smaller. Not the ideal solution, but the right one. What I’m still unclear about is how to handle the window since I have to have one that opens for fire code. Or is the only solution to have two separate windows and then will I need to get laminate in both windows?
My thought is that I need to essentially mirror the interior wall, but I’m not sure on how to get the builder to do this, or how much of a pain it will be to do it on my own if I have to rip out the original sheetrock. Also, if I can, I’ll go with an inch of gypcrete–but I have a feeling that will be too much weight when adding all the weight of the interior walls and ceiling. The “exterior” left wall is split between the interior of the walk in closet, the side of the shower/bath, and the remaining bathroom. The back wall (at the top, away from the stairs that are off to the side and bottom in the original post attachment) would have the interior wall biult in the same fashion as mentioned above. I live in Texas and we have tons of folks moving here because of our economy. Special considerations will be a different framing approach to handle a Superdoor going into the walk in closet and possibly a custom built non-opening window to use the walk in closet as an isolation booth (but I’m not really thinking I will need this as I don’t plan on having a renting out my services to many folks for recording (more mixing), and I don’t have a large room for group recording anyway! But, it’s easier to have it and not need it than have to rip things apart after putting in all that work on both walls.