My husband ‘the shade tree mechanic’ has been tinkering with it and just couldn’t find exact directions on how to do the repairs! I will follow your directions and hope I can accomplish this feat. Does any one know if I can remove the balance shaft chain or do I have to replace it? The front left cassette and the balance guide/tensioner looked ok from my inspections – no cracked or stripped plastic guides. Kind of stretching my luck that I have solved this dreadful issue without having to go through the costly engine removal process for the balance shaft and right rear cassette repairs. However having done this for myself, I was able to learn how to take the door apart and demystify car maintenance – and now I am wondering whether some other small upgrades and fixes might be within my reach. 90ˆoff and the left about 10ˆoff. is there any chance that when the valves strike the piston that the piston rod will bend there are only small marks on each piston on the right side?
I have a 2003 ford explorer 4.6L V8, 4×4. my oil pick-up tube got blocked with sludge and cause damages to my engine,i took down the oil pan and cleaned the filter however there are lingering problems. Next day I took down the oil pan to investigate if the oil strainer is blocked. This was very helpful knowledge wise but i need to know more specifically if the chain tensioners were to break would they fall into the oil pan and if so would this cause my oil pressure to decrease and my car thus to be immobile? At first glance, opening the hood, I didn’t know what was what. Just want to let everyone know that needs to preform this that the rear timing chain can replaced without removing the motor. Now, we want to slide the carrier and the bolt out of the receiver. Slide that all the way down. The Trap Range is closed anyways, so relax, and just gently slide that down. MUST face the same direction, both up or both down. Obviously, you could use a rod, and a brush, and patches, and do the same thing. And i didnt use any special tools.If any body need a help around orlando just contact me!
Also buy a cheap ratchet (say from a cheap set, check Harborfrieght) and cut the handle to say 4 inches and use it with short 1/2″ socket inside those tight spots. (You may need dremmel/or high speed wheel cutter to cut the handle). When the bolts are snug insert an appropriately sized custom made pipe extension (say 12″ long) to torque the bolts. Oh by the way it did get almost constant and because i run lucas anyway in addition to my oil, i put in another 1/2 qt on top of my 4-1 of lucas super lube stuff ( orange stuff clear bottle) it quieted a bit. The top 4trans bolts are best handled through the wheel well. I think I read the water pump bolts are M8x20x1 but that’s all I have found after hours of googling. I need new bolts for the water pump and timing cover on my 2005 4.0 I cannot find them ANYWHERE. How can this be when both cam timing chains, guides and tensioner are in tact?
Again, thanks for your hard work in preparing this excellent overview of just how to replace the timing chains, tensioners, and guides. Second, if the timing chain slipped on an 03 Explorer, on the left bank due to tensioner failure, is it common for the valves to be bent? I cleaned out all the debris and the sound improved and a lot more oil was now visible from the top oil filler cover lubricating the valves and chain when the engine is running. We got the donor engine mounted on the stand and did a quick inventory of parts that we needed to get for the swap. I’ll start with the swingarm off the bike, as the manual will show you how to get that off. This is a link: Bentley E90 repair manual I suggest the Hard Cover, it’s much easier to handle. I just assumed that the rear right tensioner/guide will also be ok since much of the clunking noise I was hearing seemed to come from front of the engine. I got word from my mechanic that I “need a new motor for the Explorer.” It’s a ’98 Explorer Sport with the 4.0 SOHC engine and 110k miles.